An Introduction to Reverse Appliqué

Featured Fabric: FreeSpirit Fabrics Sweet Somethings by Carolyn Gavin

Pattern Design by: Meredith Daniel

Sewn by: Meredith Daniel

Today I’m going to show you how to use the reverse appliqué method. I’ve included the template I used for my project, but you can use this method on just about any project you can dream up. I turned mine into a pillow, but you can use this method on quilt blocks, garments, totes, curtains, and so much more!

With regular appliqué, you are taking a shape or letter, and stitching it onto a background of some sort. You can create layers and continue to stitch on the top of the surface. Well, reverse appliqué is exactly what it sounds like- its the opposite method wherein we take a shape out of a fabric and use another fabric (or even a patchwork panel) to fill the space. Scroll down to see how fun this method is!

Technique: Reverse appliqué

Skill Level: Varies, example would be confident beginner

Finished Size: 6” x 10” (15.24cm x 25.40cm)

Fabric Requirements:

Two cuts of fabric:

Additional Recommendations:

Freezer paper

Bunny Template (download here)

Pencil

Glue stick and/or straight pins

cutting tools, acrylic ruler, coordinating thread

Cutting:

Decide what you want to make your reverse appliqué into or if this is your very first try, practice this method with some fabric scraps. I made a 20" x 20” pillow, so I cut my main fabric to 20” square. The background only requires about 8" x 12” which will leave room for lining it up under the opening with room for error.

Instructions:

Begin by tracing the Bunny Template onto the matte side of the freezer paper with your pencil.

Find the center of your main fabric, and iron the freezer paper, shiny side down, onto the back side of the main fabric. Don’t use steam. The paper should stay in place with just a quick touch of the iron.

Using a coordinating thread and a short straight stitch, stitch right onto the freezer paper and follow the shape you traced. Lift the presser foot and pivot around the shape as often as needed.

Use scissors to cut out interior shape- leave about 1/4” in the inside of the shape like this:

Remove the freezer paper only from the inside of the shape, and where there are curves or corners, clip UP TO the stitching line but NOT into the stitching.

Using your iron, press the raw edges toward the outside of the shape using the stitching as a guide. Having the freezer paper around the outside of the shape is really helpful for this part! You can remove the freezer paper after you are finished with this step.

After removing the freezer paper, you are ready to apply the background to the opening you have created. Center the background, and use the glue stick or pins, or a combination of both, to pin the main fabric to the background. I used glue on the turned under bits in most places, but I added a couple of pins on the small section by the front of the foot.

Finally, you are ready to stitch along the top fabric. As long as you stitch on the top fabric with a narrow 1/8” seam allowance, you can choose any stitch style you want. You can go simple and do a straight stitch or you can use any appliqué stitch from your machine. I chose a satin stitch because I wanted a heavy outline that would pop against the busyness of the main fabric.

Congratulations! You have just completed the reverse appliqué! You’re ready to add some spice to whatever project you can dream up from quilt blocks with interesting shapes to pillows that can go with any season. You can even use this method to patch holes in clothing in a truly creative way!

Happy sewing!

Fabric Details:
To view the complete FreeSpirit Fabrics Sweet Somethings by Carolyn Gavin, click here.


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Learn more about Meredith here.