Toddler Pillowcase Dress
Featured Fabric: Studio E Fabrics Splendid Path by Chelsea DesignWorks with Karen Montgomery
Pattern design by: Lindsay Conner
Sewn by: Lindsay Conner
This “pillowcase” style dress looks darling in floral or springtime fabrics and is easily customizable to fit a young child size 2T to 5T. This free pillowcase dress pattern uses the “burrito” assembly method, similar to our free burrito pillowcase pattern. If you can sew in a straight line, you can make this easy girl’s dress! Kids will love picking out their own fabrics to create the dress—you can use up to three different prints.
Skills Learned: Machine sewing, French seams, making fabric ties
Skill Level: Advanced Beginner
Finished Size: Varies
Size Chart for Fabric Cuts
Size Main Fabric Cuff Size Armhole Width Armhole Length
2T 17” x 21” 11” x 21” 2.5” 5”
3T 18.5” x 21” 14” x 21” 2.5” 6”
4T 19.5” x 21” 14” x 21” 2.5” 6”
5T 22” x 21” 14” x 21” 3” 7”
Fabric & Cutting Directions
Main Fabric: 1/2 yard (.45m) to 3/4 yard (.69m) based on dress size (see chart above). I used:
- 7568-01 White | Hydrangea
Cuff Fabric: 1/2 yard (.46m). I used:
- 7567-11 Aqua | Tone-on-Tone Floral
Bias Binding and Ties: 1/2 yard (.46m). I used:
- 7565-22 Pink | Ditsy Floral
Equipment needed:
Sewing machine
Iron
Fabric cutting tools (scissors or rotary cutter, ruler, and cutting mat)
Sewing clips or pins
Safety Pin
Thread
Sew the Dress
1) Use the chart above to cut the armholes from the top left and right of the main fabric. (For this size 3T dress, I marked 6” down and 2.5” in from the top left corner.) Slice a rounded “J shape” with a rotary cutter to make the armhole. You can trace a drinking glass to get a rounded shape. Remove the fabric cutout and use it to create a mirror image on the top right side.
2) Next we will make a “burrito” to attach an accent strip on the front and back pieces of the dress. Stack the fabrics in front of you as follows:
Bottom: Place the 14″ cuff fabric right side up.
Middle: Next, stack the main fabric right side up, aligning the bottom raw edges. Take the arm cutouts (top of dress) and gently roll them into a burrito, stopping when you get to about the center of the accent strip.
Top: Take the top raw edge of the accent strip and cover the burrito, joining it with the other raw edge of the accent strip. Pin in place. Repeat with the second accent strip and main fabric pair.
3) Stitch along the pinned raw edges of one dress panel. Repeat with the second dress panel.
4) Gently pull out the dress fabric from inside each tube to reveal the front and back dress panels. Press.
5) Topstitch across each panel 1/8” from the edge of each accent piece.
6) To attach the front and back dress panels, we’ll sew a French seam. First, stack the dress pieces with wrong sides together—pretty sides facing you. (This will feel wrong, but it is correct!) Clip the sides and the bottom together and sew a ¼” seam along those raw edges only.
7) Now, turn the dress wrong side out. Press the seams, and then sew a wider 3/8” seam on the same two sides you sewed earlier. This will trap the raw edges inside and finish the French seam. Press again.
8) The French seam looks pretty on the inside of the dress and is more durable than an unfinished seam. Turn the dress right side out again and press.
Finish the Armholes
9) Next, you’ll make the bias binding. On a 45-2 degree angle, cut 2½” bias strips that equal 20” long when joined together. Join end to end and press open the seams. Fold each strip in half and press. Unfold and then fold the ends in to meet the center. Press again to make a four-fold bias binding strip.
10) Starting at the end of one armhole, pin or clip the right side of the bias binding strip to the wrong side of the armhole so that the raw edges line up. Gently stretch the fabric as you go around the curve.
Stitch along the fold line closest to the raw edges, removing pins as you go.
Next, fold the bias strip over the raw edge of the armole and pin or clip in place. Stitch 1/8” from the edge of the bias binding to secure in place.
Trim off the remaining bias strip and use it to add binding to the second armhole.
Make the Strap Casing
11) To make a casing for the straps, fold the raw edges of the dress front and back (located at the top of the dress) ¼” toward the wrong side, then another ¾” toward the wrong side. Press both seams in place. Pin or clip the casing; this is where you’ll insert the fabric ties.
Make the Fabric Ties
12) From the remaining yardage, cut 2 strips 2.5” x 42” (width of fabric). Fold each short end in by ¼” and press. Next, fold each strip in half along the width and press. Unfold and then fold the ends in to meet the center line. Press again to make a four-fold strap. Stitch in place by sewing 1/8” around the perimeter of the entire strap, turning at the corners. Repeat with the other fabric tie.
13) Attach a safety pin to the end of one fabric tie. Use this to lace it through the front strap casing. Repeat with the other fabric tie through the back strap casing. Tie the fabric ties into a bow at the left and right shoulders to complete the dress, gathering the fabric together to give the dress shape and fullness.
That’s it! We hope you enjoyed this tutorial to show you how to sew a simple girl’s dress using three small cuts of fabric. Happy sewing!
Fabric Details:
To view the complete Studio E Fabrics Splendid Path by Chelsea DesignWorks with Karen Montgomery click here.
To find a retailer near you click here.
Learn more about Lindsay here.
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