Mod Blooms for Brunch! A Modern Spring Table-Runner (Plus matching placemats!)

Crafts & Projects

Featured Fabrics: Henry Glass Fabrics Buttermilk Blenders by Stacy West (@buttermilkbasin)

Pattern Design by: Amy Simmonds of Stitched by Starlight (@stitchedbystarlight )

Sewn by: Amy Simmonds of Stitched by Starlight (@stitchedbystarlight )

Spring has officially begun! Now is the perfect time to plan and host brunch!  Whether it’s for Mother’s Day, Easter, or just a fun meal to share with your besties; this Table-Runner will be the perfect touch for your table setup!

After you create your Mod Blooms Table-Runner, make the event easy by shopping local.  Visit your favorite bakery for some pastries and then stop by an independent florist for some fresh spring blooms!

Skill Level:  Adventurous Beginner

Skills Learned:  Sewing Curves

Finished Size:  52” long x 18” wide (132.08cm x 45.72cm). Note: Instructions to adjust the Length to be longer or shorter can be found at the end of the tutorial!

Fabric Requirements:
1/4 Yard Each (.23m) – Blooms (5 different coordinating fabrics) Fat Quarter Friendly!
1/8 Yard (.11m) - Green
1 ½” Yards (1.37m) - Background Fabric
1 ½  Yards (1.37m) - Backing
1/3 Yard (.30) - Binding
60” x 26” (1.52m x .66) piece of Batting

Get this look using Buttermilk Blenders by Stacy West!

Blooms:
1/4 Yard  Dusty Pink (BMLKBLENDER Q-2944-22)
1/4 Yard  Red (BMLKBLENDER Q-2944-87)
1/4 Yard  Cheddar (BMLKBLENDER Q-2944-32)
1/4 Yard  Lt Yellow (BMLKBLENDER Q-2944-40)
1/4 Yard  Lt Teal Blue (BMLKBLENDER Q-2944-70)

Stems:
1/8 Yard  Pea Green (BMLKBLENDER Q-2944-60)

Background and Backing:
3 Yards – Peppered Cottons “Oyster” (E-PEPPR-E-35-SOL)

Binding:
1/4 Yard  Cream (BMLKBLENDER Q-2944-36)

Additional Supplies & Equipment Needed:
Sewing Pins (Extra Fine)
Sewing Clips
Marking Pencil or Pen
Thread
Scissors
Spray Starch
24” Clear Quilters Ruler with 1/4” and 1/8” markings
28mm Rotary Cutter
45mm Rotary Cutter
Cutting Surface, such as a self-healing mat
Sewing Machine with standard sewing foot (or walking foot)
Iron and Ironing Surface, such as an ironing board or wool pressing mat
Seam Ripper   *With luck you won’t need it*
Flexible Cutting Board, like the kind you use in the kitchen (optional)
Tape

Before you begin:
I highly recommend reading the instructions completely, before starting your project.

NOTE:  1/4” seam allowance is used at all times, unless otherwise noted.

Abbreviations:
RST = Right Sides Together
HST = Half-Square-Triangle
WOF = Width of Fabric (Selvage to Selvage – typically this is 40” or more.)

Tip!  Always backstitch every time you start or stop sewing.  This will improve the integrity and strength of your project.

Step 1:  Gather fabrics and supplies


Step 2:   Pre-wash and iron your fabrics (Optional)

Washing:

Whether or not you prewash your fabrics won’t necessarily change the outcome of your project, however I choose to always pre-wash fabrics for 3 reasons.

To identify any possible color bleeding, to handle any possible shrinkage ahead of time, and to eliminate the manufacturer’s creases.

Tip!  A Color Catcher will help save your fabrics if any bleeding does occur.

Ironing:

When working with a pattern that has curves, it is best to use Spray Starch in order to help minimize the distortion of pieces when sewing and pressing curves.

Step 3:  Cutting

Tip!  Before cutting, Click Here to download and print the Label Sheet to label your pieces!

Preparing the Templates: Click Here to download and print the Templates for this pattern.

Print the included templates at 100% scale.  Check the 1” test square to ensure the page has printed at the proper scale.

If desired, tape the paper templates to a flexible kitchen cutting board and carefully cut around the paper template using strong scissors.

This is completely optional, but does help guide the rotary cutter.

Cutting the Blooms:   (Refer to the Bloom Fabric Cutting Diagram* below)

Using the 45mm rotary cutter, cut the following strips from Each of the Bloom Fabrics (pink, red, orange, yellow, blue):

  • (2) 3” x Width of Fat Quarter (18”)
  • (2) 2 ¾” x Width of Fat Quarter

Sub-cut the Strips into the following pieces:

From the (2) 3” strips, and label as indicated:

  • (8) 3” x 3”               (Label as HST)
  • (4) 2 ¾” x 2 ¾”    (Label as Template D)

From the (2) 2 ¾” strips, and label as indicated:

  • (4) 4 ½” x 2 ¾”    (Label as Template A)
  • (4) 2 ¾” x 2 ¾”    (Label as Template D)

After cutting the pieces from all 5 Bloom Fabrics you will have the following number of Bloom Pieces:

  • 20 total pieces, for Template A
  • 40 total pieces, for HST
  • 40 total pieces, for Template D

*Note:  The Cutting Diagram shows Templates A & D with their curves cut out already, this is simply to easily show what you are cutting the pieces for.
You will only be cutting rectangles and squares from the strips and will cut the curves in the next step.

Using the 28mm rotary cutter, cut the following:

  • Using the 4 ½” x 2 ¾” rectangles, align Template A and cut carefully around the curve. Repeat this for all 20 Template A Pieces.
  • Using the 2 ¾” x 2 ¾” squares, align Template D and cut carefully around the curve.  Repeat this for all 40 Template D Pieces.

Tip!  Adding a rolled piece of tape to the back of your template will help hold it in place as you cut curves!

Cutting the Stems: 

Using the green Stem fabric, cut:

  • (10) ¾” x 2 ¼”
  • (10) ¾” x 3 ¼”

Cutting the Background Fabric:  (See the Background Fabric Cutting Diagram below)

Using the 45mm rotary cutter, cut the following:

Fold fabric in half, selvage to selvage, and cut the following strips:

  • (2) 4 ½” x WOF
  • (1) 7 ¼” x WOF
  • (9) 3” x WOF
  • (1) 3 ¼” x WOF
  • (1) 2 ¼” x WOF
  • (1) 1 ½” x WOF

Sub-cut the Strips into the following pieces, referring to the Background Fabric Cutting Diagram* below:

From the (2) 4 ½” strips cut and label as indicated:

  • (2) 4 ½” x 26 ¼”  (Label as Center)
  • (4) 3 ¼” x 2 3/8”  (Label as Stem Side 1)
  • (4) 2 ¼” x 2 3/8”  (Label as Stem Side 2)
  • (1) 3” x 3”                (Label as HST)
  • (1) 3” x 3”                (use with Template C)

From the 7 ¼” strip, cut and label as indicated:

  • (20) 7 ¼” x 1 ½”    (Label as “Divider”)
  • (2) 7 ¼” x 2 ¼”      (Label as “Right”)
  • (2) 7 ¼” x 1 ¼”       (Label as “Left”)
  • (2) 1 ½” x 4  ½”      (Label as Top)

From (3) of the 3" strips, cut and label as indicated:

  • (20) 3” x 5” (use with Template B)

From (3) of the 3" strips, cut and label as indicated:

  • (39) 3” x 3” (use with Template C)

From (3) of the 3" strips cut and label as indicated:

  • (39) 3” x 3” (Label as HST)

From the 3 ¼” strip, cut and label as indicated:

  • (16) 3 ¼” x 2 3/8” (Label as Stem Side 1)

From the 2 ¼” strip, cut and label as indicated:

  • (16) 2 ¼” x 2 3/8” (Label as Stem Side 2)

From the 1 ½” strip, cut and label as indicated:

  • (8) 1 ½” x 4 ½” (Label as Top)

*Note:  The Cutting Diagram shows Templates B & C with their curves cut out already, this is simply to easily show what you are cutting the pieces for.
You will only be cutting rectangles and squares from the strips and will cut the curves in the next step.

Using the 28mm rotary cutter, cut the following:

  • Using the 3” x 5” rectangles, align Template B and carefully cut the curve. Repeat this for all 20 Template B Pieces.
  • Using the 3” x 3” squares, align Template C and carefully cut the curve.  Repeat this for all 40 Template C Pieces.

Tip!  Go slowly, you will cut more accurately if you don’t rush!

Cutting the Backing:

Cut (2) 26” x 30”  (Includes 4” over-hang for quilting.)

Cutting the Binding*:

Cut (4) 2” x WOF

*2” binding is used for the Single Pass Binding Method.  For a tutorial, refer to Steps 6 & 8 in the DIY Bedside Caddy Tutorial.

If you wish to do a Traditional Binding method, cut strips 2 ½” x WOF.

Step 4:  Creating Half Circle Units

Create (20) Half-Circle Units by combining Template A + Template B.

Pinning Half Circle Units:

Using (1) Template A piece and (1) Template B piece; fold each piece in half and finger press, creating a crease in the center of each curve.

Align the Template A piece and Template B piece, RST with center-creases aligned as shown.

Pin the center to secure.  Do your best to keep the horizontal edges parallel.

Align the skinny ends of Template B with the straight edge of Template A, as shown.  Pin to secure.

Holding your pieces with Template A facing up, manipulate Template A to nest into the curve of Template B.

Remember, they will nest ¼” below the cut edge of the fabrics, that is where the seam will be.

The exact edges of Template A and Template B will NOT line up perfectly, this is okay.

Pin to secure the approximate centers between the original 3 pins, as shown.

Manipulate the fabrics again to evenly spread out the fabrics between the pins, then add another pin in the center of that area.

Continue pinning until you feel the curve of Template A has been evenly distributed into the curve of Template B.

When all fabrics have been evenly distributed there should not be any folds, bumps or obvious ripples along the curve.

Pro Tip!  Practice pinning the curves. You’ll get better every time you try!  If you aren’t happy, un-pin and try again.

Sewing Half Circle Units:

Sew the curved edge with Template B facing up.

Safety Tip!  Do not sew over pins!

Sew slowly and stop as needed to adjust the fabrics.  Always make sure the needle is in the “Down” position before raising the presser foot to make any adjustments.

As you stitch around the curve, watch the Template B fabric, it can be bunched or “pushed askew” by the sewing foot.

Since there is a lot of fabric along the curve it will want to build up in-front of your sewing foot, stop sewing as often as needed to re-adjust the Template B fabrics, smooth the excess fabric by redirecting it in the direction of the closest pins.

Repeat the Pinning & Sewing steps to create (20) Half Circle Units.

Step 5:  Creating Quarter Circle Units

Create (40) Quarter-Circle Units by combining Template C + Template D.

Pinning Quarter Circle Units:

Using (1) Template C piece and (1) Template D piece; fold each piece in half and finger press, creating a crease in the center of each curve.

Align the Template C piece and Template D piece, RST with center-creases aligned as shown.

Pin the center to secure.  Do your best to keep the straight edges parallel.

Align the skinny ends of Template C with the straight edges of Template D, as shown.  Pin to secure.

Holding your pieces, Template D facing up, manipulate Template D to nest into the curve of Template C.

Remember, they will nest ¼” into the fabric, that is where the seam will be.

The edges of Template C and Template D will NOT line up perfectly, this is okay.

Pin to secure the approximate center between the center pin and the edge, as shown.

Manipulate the fabrics again to evenly spread out the fabrics between the pins, then add another pin in the center of that area.

Continue Pinning until you feel the curve of Template D has been evenly distributed into the Template C curve.

When all fabrics have been evenly distributed there should not be any folds, bumps or obvious ripples along the curve.

Tip!  Practice pinning the curves!  You’ll get better every time you try!    If you aren’t happy, un-pin and try again!

Sewing Curved Units:

Sew the curved edge with Template C facing up.

Sew slowly and stop as needed, with the needle down, to adjust the fabrics.

As you stitch around the curve, watch the Template C fabric, it can be bunched or “pushed askew” by the sewing foot.

Since there is a lot of fabric along the curve it will want to build up in-front of your sewing foot, stop sewing as often as needed to re-adjust the Template B fabrics, smooth the excess fabric by redirecting it in the direction of the closest pins.

Repeat the Pinning & Sewing steps to create (40) Quarter Circle Units.

Step 6:  Clipping Curves:

Clip Curves and Press seams for all (20) Half Circle Units and (40) Quarter Circle Units.

Clipping Curves: 

Clip the seam allowance every 1/8”-1/4” apart, stop cutting at least 1/8” away from the seam so you don’t risk cutting your stitching.

(The closer together you clip the fabric, the smoother your curve will be)

Pressing:

Press seams towards the background fabric.

Step 7:  Trimming Curved Units:

Trimming the Half Circle Units:

Using your clear quilters ruler and the Half Circle Unit (Template A + Template B)  Align the ruler as follows:

The center of the curve needs to lines up with 2 ¼” marking.

The ends of the curve need to line up with the ¼” marking and 4 ¼” marking.

Cut any excess fabric that extends past the ruler’s edges. (For me it’s on the right side, and along the top edge)

Rotate the Half Circle Unit 180°, re-align the ruler as follows:

The long cut edge needs to line up with the 2 ½” marking.

The short cut edge needs to line up with the 4 ½” marking.

Cut any excess fabric that extends past the ruler’s edges.  The unit should now be 4 ½” x 2 ½”.

Repeat to trim all 20 Half Circle Units.

Trimming the Quarter Circle Units:

Using your clear quilters ruler and the Quarter Circle Unit (Template C + Template D)  Align the ruler as follows:

Both ends of the curve need to line up with the 2 ¼” markings, as shown.

Cut any excess fabric that extends past the ruler’s edges. (For me, it’s on the right side, and along the top edge)

Rotate the Quarter Circle Unit 180°, re-align the ruler as follows:

Both cut edges need to line up with the 2 ½” markings

Cut any excess fabric that extends past the ruler’s edges.  The unit should now be 2 ½” x 2 ½”.

Repeat to trim all 40 Quarter Circle Units.

Step 8:  Creating HST

Using (1) 3” x 3” Bloom fabric piece, and (1) 3” x 3” background piece, align RST.

Mark a diagonal line on the wrong side of the background piece.

Stitch directly on the marked line.

 Trim the seam allowance to ¼”.

Press seam open.

Trim the HST to 2 ½. 

Line up the diagonal seam along the 45°, then ensure that fabric extends past the 2 ½” mark on both sides under the ruler.

Cut off excess fabric that extends past the ruler’s edges.  (For me, this is on the right side and along the top)

Rotate the HST 180°, re-align the ruler as follows:

Both cut edges need to line up with the 2 ½” markings

Cut any excess fabric that extends past the ruler’s edges.

The unit should now be 2 ½” x 2 ½”.

Repeat to make (40) 2 ½” x 2 ½” HST units.

Step 9:  Creating Bloom Units

Each Bloom needs a Top Left Unit and a Top Right Unit.

For the left side of the Bloom: 

Use (1) Quarter Circle Unit and (1) HST.

Lay the Quarter Circle Unit with the curve on the left side as shown.

Place the HST, RST on top of the Quarter Circle Unit, with the seam extending from the bottom left corner to the top right corner, as shown.

Mark a diagonal line on the wrong side of the HST, perpendicular to the HST seam.

(The line should go from the top left corner to the bottom right corner.)

Stitch directly on the marked line.

Trim the seam to ¼”, removing the top right corner, as shown.

Press seam open.

Repeat to make (4) Top Left Units per color.  (20 Total)

For the right side of the bloom:

Use (1) Quarter Circle Unit and (1) HST.  Lay the Quarter Circle Unit with the curve on the right side as shown.

Place the HST, RST on top of the Quarter Circle Unit, with the seam extending from the bottom right corner to the top left corner, as shown.

Mark a diagonal line on the wrong side of the HST, perpendicular to the HST seam.

(The line should go from the top right corner to the bottom left corner.)

Stitch directly on the marked line.

Trim the seam to ¼”, removing the top left corner, as shown.

 Press seam open.

Repeat to make (4) Top Right Units per color.  (20 Total)

Join Top Left and Top Right Units

Using (1) Top Left Unit and (1) Top Right Unit, align RST, clip to secure, stitch.

Press the seam open.

Repeat to make (4) 2 ½” x 4 ½” Bloom Tops per color.  (20 Total)

Creating the Bloom Units:

Using (1) Bloom Top and (1) Half Circle Unit, align RST, clip to secure, stitch.

Press the seam towards the Half Circle Unit.

Repeat to make (4) 4 ½” x 4 ½” Bloom Units per color. (20 Total Bloom Units)

Step 10:  Creating Stem Units

There are two different stem heights used in the design, create (10) of each size Stem Unit.

For the Long Stem:   Each unit uses (2) Stem Side 1 pieces and (1) 3 ¼” x 3/4” Stem piece.

Align (1) Stem Side 1 piece RST with the long Stem piece, clip to secure, stitch.

Align the second Stem Side 1 piece, RST, on the other side of the Stem piece, clip to secure, stitch.

Press the seams toward the background fabric.

Repeat to make (10) 3 ¼” x 4 ½” Long Stem Units.

For the Short Stem:  Each unit uses (2) Stem Side 2 pieces, and (1) 2 ¼” x 3/4” Stem piece.

Align (1) Stem Side 2 piece RST with the short Stem piece, clip to secure, stitch.

Align the second Stem Side 2 piece, RST, on the opposite side of the Stem piece, clip to secure, stitch.

Press seams towards the background fabric.

Repeat to make (10) 2 ¼” x 4 ½” Short Stem Units.

Step 11:  Assembling the Bloom Blocks

Determine the order in which you want your blooms will be arranged on your Table-Runner.

Label Blooms 1-20 according to the diagram below.

For odd numbered blooms, join each Bloom Unit with (1) Long Stem Unit.

Place Bloom and Stem units RST, clip to secure, stitch.

Press seams towards the Stem Unit.

For even numbered blooms, join each Bloom Unit with (1) Short Stem Unit and a Top piece.

Place Bloom and Stem units RST, clip to secure, stitch.

Press seams towards the Stem Unit.

Align (1) Top piece, RST, along the top edge of the Bloom Unit, clip to secure, stitch.

Press seam towards the Top piece.

Step 12:  Table-Runner Assembly

Align both Center pieces along the short edge, clip to secure, stitch.

Press the seam open.

For each row of Blooms, use (1) left piece, (9) Divider pieces, 10 Bloom Units and (1) right piece.

Assemble 2 rows of Blooms in the order shown below.

Press seams toward the Background fabrics (Divider, Left and Right).

Join the Bloom Rows and Center, as shown below.

Press Seams toward the Center.

Step 13:  Backing and Quilting

Create the Backing: 

Join the (2) backing pieces along the short edge, clip to secure, stitch.

Press the seam open.

Backing should measure 26” x 60”  (Includes 4” overhang for quilting.)

Sandwiching: 

Lay the backing, wrong side up, top that with the batting, then top with the Table-Runner Right Side up.

Pin or Spray Baste your layers as desired.

Quilt and bind as desired.

If you would like to quilt your Mod Blooms Table-Runner as shown below, use a Hera Marker to mark lines 1 3/8” apart, lining up with the diagonal edges on the Blooms as shown below.

For Binding, if you want to see a full photo tutorial for adding a binding in a single pass, check out the DIY Bedside Caddy Blog, steps 6 & 8! )   

Congratulations, your Mod Blooms Table-Runner is ready for Brunch! 

Washing and Care Instructions: 

Machine was on cold with like colors, tumble dry on low heat, press with a warm iron.

Modifying the Length to suit your table: 

If you wish to make your Mod Blooms Table-Runner larger or smaller, simply add or remove an equal number of (Bloom Blocks + Divider Pieces) to both rows.

Each (Bloom Block + Divider Piece) added or removed will change the overall length of the Table-Runner by 5”.

You will need to adjust the length of the center unit accordingly.

Want matching Placemats?  That’s Easy!

To create a 12” x 18” Placemat you will need:
(3) Bloom Units
(2) Dividers
(2) 12” x 2 ¼” ( Placemat Sides)
(1) 14 ½” x 5 ¼  (Placemat Top)

Sew together the placemat units in the following order:

Join (1) Bloom + (1) Divider + (1) Bloom + (1) Divider + (1) Bloom, press seams towards the Divider pieces.

Join the Placemat Top to the Blooms, press seams towards the Placemat Top.

Add a Placemat Side to the right and left of the placemat.

Quilt and Bind as desired.

Fabric Details:

To view the complete Henry Glass Fabrics Buttermilk Blenders by Stacy West (@buttermilkbasin), click here.

Learn more about Amy here.