Make Your Own Shower Curtain

June 23, 2023 Crafts & Projects, Fabric & Sewing

Featuring: FreeSpirit Fabrics 108” Delphinium Quilt Backing by Anna Maria

Pattern Design by: Kristie J. Smith

Sewn by: Kristie J. Smith

I recently moved to a new city to start a new life chapter. We found a lovely rental house with comfortable space; however, the guest bathroom was a smidge underwhelming. How to give this bathroom some character? Well…I grabbed an amazing piece of backing fabric and quickly constructed a shower curtain that reflected my style.

I found an extra-long shower curtain liner (84” long)…apparently, it’s a thing. Hanging the shower curtain higher makes the room feel more upscale and adds color without having to paint the walls. This simple shower curtain is a snap to construct and has buttonholes. If you just broke out into hives thinking about making buttonholes, have no fear…this project is the perfect place to practice. If the buttonholes are less than perfect, no one will see them hanging high. So, grab your favorite fabric, and let’s get started.

Skills Learned: Basic hems; Buttonholes

Skill Level: Beginner

Finished Size: 72” x 84” (1.83m x 2.13m)

Fabric Requirements:

108” Backing Fabric - Delphinium - Jewel by Anna Maria (QBAH004.JEWEL) – 2 ¾ yards (2.52m)
Medium-weight fusible interfacing - 3/4 yard (.69m)
Thread to match the fabric

Equipment needed:

Sewing machine
General sewing supplies
Seam guide or acrylic ruler for measuring
Marking utensil (disappearing pen or chalk marker)
Iron/ironing surface
Buttonhole foot or attachment
Edgestitch foot (optional)
Instruction book for your sewing machine
Shower curtain liner (72” x 84”; 1.83m x 2.13m)

Cutting:

108” Backing fabric: cut to 75” x 96”

Fusible interfacing: cut four 5 ½” strips

Instructions:

It is so important to know how to use your sewing machine, so be sure to have your owner’s manual handy. If you don’t have your owner’s manual, consider looking it up online – it is amazing what you can find!

1. On the vertical (long) sides, fold the raw edges 1/2” inward toward the wrong side of the fabric; press. Turn inward once more by 1” and press. Pin in place if needed.

2. At the machine: choose a straight stitch; attach either a standard presser foot or an edgestitch foot if available. If your machine allows you to adjust the needle position, move the needle ~2-3 notches to the left. Place the fold under the presser foot and stitch along the edge ~1/8” to secure the fold and hem the sides. This is called edgestitching.

3. On the bottom of the fabric, fold the raw edge inward toward the wrong side ~1/2”; press. Turn the fabric under again 5 ½” and press. Pin in place if needed.

4. Follow step #2 and edgestitch to secure the hem.

5. On the top of the fabric: fold the raw edge inward toward the wrong side ~1/2”; press. Turn the fabric under again 5 ½” and press. This time, open the hem outward.

6. Following the manufacturer’s recommendations, fuse the 5.5” interfacing strips to the wrong side of the fabric, between the pressed lines. I just butted the edges of the interfacing until the area was covered; you do not have to stitch the interfacing together. The interfacing adds stabilization to the fabric and assists with the stability of buttonholes.

7. Fold the fabric as previously folded (1/2”, then 5 ½”); press and pin if needed. Edgestitch the hem closed.

8. Edgestitch the sides of the hem closed.

9. We’ll need to mark the buttonholes by using the shower liner as a guide. Place the liner on a flat surface and lay the shower curtain on top, offset to reveal the grommets on the liner. Using a marking utensil, mark a vertical line where the buttonholes should go.

The Buttonholes: This is where your instruction manual comes in handy. Read through to see how to do buttonholes on your machine before moving to the next step. Each machine is different: some have buttonhole attachments, some have buttonhole feet, some do automatic buttonholes, and manual buttonholes can be improvised on zigzag machines…whatever way your machine operates, don’t be afraid to jump in and try it.

Here are some tips:

Your buttonholes will be vertical for this project.
Buttonholes usually start 5/8” from the edge of the fabric. I used my seam guide to measure 5/8” from the edge and placed a pin horizontally. I am right-handed, so the heads of the pins are placed to the right so I can easily remove them while stitching.

Buttonholes can be any length. I marked mine 1” from the 5/8” mark…this makes a 1” buttonhole. ***You can also mark the buttonholes with your marking utensil instead of using pins.

Buttonholes are made with two lines of zig-zag stitches and closed off with bar tacks. Some machines will have extra steps to reinforce the buttonhole.
Have a scrap of fabric doubled to practice buttonholes before you start on the actual project.

Now…you can do it. Stitch the buttonholes on all of your marked lines. To open your buttonholes, take a pair of sharp scissors or a seam ripper to gently clip the fabric between the zigzag beads of the buttonhole. Remember, this project is the perfect place to practice buttonholes; no one will notice if they are less than perfect; and soon you will become an expert by the buttonhole practice.