Trick Or Treat Totes – 3 Ways!

Featured Fabric: FreeSpirit Fabrics Mystic Moonlight by Club Hauer

Pattern Design by: Amy Simmonds of Stitched by Starlight (@stitchedbystarlight)

Sewn by: Amy Simmonds of Stitched by Starlight (@stitchedbystarlight)

Halloween is my absolute favorite holiday! Costumes, fun foods, and all the candy kids will need to last them the entire year! When my kids were young, I was able to take them trick-or-treating many times, and it was interesting to see how their trick-or-treating experiences changed. They started out holding my hand and walking with me from door to door, but before long they wanted to go with their friends and were running between houses or hopping on golf carts in the big neighborhoods. Looking back on those precious experiences, I realized some things that would have made their experience and mine just a bit easier, and safer!  I created this pattern while keeping in mind the things I wish my kids had when they were trick or treating.

For Safety:

- 2 D-Rings on the exterior of the bag will be perfect for hanging Glow Sticks, giving your kiddos increased visibility in the dark!

- The Inset Zipper Pocket is large enough to securely hold a cell phone, an AirTag or even a walkie-talkie!  This allows you to stay in touch with your kids and/or track their movements if they’re out with friends or other family!

For Comfort:

- Two strap lengths allow you to choose which length will be best for your child’s stage in life!

  • Young children will enjoy shorter handles as the bag will be less likely to drag on the ground, and they won’t have to lift the bag as high to accept the treats being passed out!
  • Older kids will benefit with the option to carry the bag in their hands, or throw it over their shoulder when it starts to get too heavy! (One year my middle child came home with a can of black beans and a can of soda, that bag weighed a Lot and his poor little hands were tired!!)

No matter what stage of life your kids are in, you’ll find a bag style that will suit their needs and will last for years!

Skill Level:  Confident Beginner

Skills Learned:  Basic Sewing Skills, Making Ruffles, Installing an Inset Zipper

Finished Size:  12”H x 10”L x 5”W (30.48cm X 25.40cm X 12.70cm)

Fabric Requirements (for EACH bag – choose option below or make all three!):

½ Yard (.46m) - Bag Exterior
½ Yard (.46m) - Bag Interior
1/3 Yard (.30m) - Ruffles (Optional)
2 Yards (1.82m) fusible interfacing, such as Pellon 911FF
1 - 8” (20.32cm) Zipper
2- 1” (2.54cm) D-Rings
1-2 Yards (.46m) Cotton Belting (1 yard for short handles, 2 yards for longer handles)

 

Basic Trick or Treat Tote (Option 1)


½ Yard (Bag Exterior) PWRH092.ORANGE - Halloween Stripe
½ Yard (Bag Interior) PWRH091.PURPLE - Cottage Halloween

 

Accent Stripe Trick or Treat Tote (Option 2)


½ Yard (Bag Exterior) PWRH087.MULTI - Crow Damask
½ Yard (Bag Interior) PWRH037.PURPLE – Batstooth

 

Ruffled Trick or Treat Tote (Option 3)


½ Yard (Bag Exterior) PWRH090.OLIVE - Wise Owl
½ Yard (Bag Interior) PWRH093.GREEN - Pumpkin Grid
1/3 Yard (Ruffles) PWRH096.ORANGE - Stripe

 

Additional Supplies & Equipment Needed:

Cotton Bath Towel
Waxed Dental Floss (Ruffled Bags Only)
Pencil or Pen
Sewing Clips
Straight Sewing Pins
Thread
Scissors
Rotary Cutter and Cutting Surface, such as a self-healing mat
Clear Quilters Ruler
Sewing Machine with standard sewing foot (or walking foot)
Iron and Ironing Surface, such as an ironing board or wool pressing mat
Seam Ripper   *With luck you won’t need it*

I highly recommend reading the instructions completely, before starting your project.

NOTE:  a ½” seam allowance is used at all times, unless otherwise noted.

Tip!  Always backstitch every time you start or stop sewing.  This will improve the integrity and strength of your bag.

 

Step 1:  Gather fabrics and supplies

Step 2:   Pre-wash and iron your fabrics (Optional)

Whether or not you prewash your fabrics won’t necessarily change the outcome of your project, however, I choose to always pre-wash fabrics for 3 reasons.  To identify any possible color bleeding, to handle any possible shrinkage ahead of time, and to eliminate the manufacturer’s creases.

Tip!  A Color catcher will help save your fabrics if any bleeding does occur.

Step 3:  Determine which Bag Style you want to make!   

This tutorial has instructions for 3 unique styles for the exterior!  Once you determine which style to use, start from the appropriate Step 4. General instructions will resume again on Step 5.                                                                        

Option 1: Basic, perfect for large prints!                         

Option 2: Accent Stripe, for a pop of color!                               

                                                     

Option 3: Ruffled, to make things a little fancy!     

Step 4 for Basic Exterior:

Cutting:

Using the Bag Exterior fabric, cut the following pieces:
(2) 16”w x 15 ½”h (Exterior)
(1) 10”w x 6 ½”h (Zipper Pocket)

Using the Bag Interior Fabric, cut the following pieces:
(2) 16”w x 15 ½”h (Interior)
(1) 10”w x 6 ½”h (Zipper Pocket)

From Fusible Interfacing, cut the following Pieces:
(2) 16”w x 15 ½”h (Exterior)
(2) 16”w x 15 ½”h (Interior)
(2) 10”w x 6 ½”h (Zipper Pocket)

Interfacing:

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, apply interfacing pieces to the wrong side of each bag piece.

Tip!  Always use a pressing cloth when applying interfacing, this will help keep your iron clean!

At this point, proceed to Step 5.

 

Step 4 for Bag with Accent Stripe:

Cutting:

Using the Bag Exterior fabric, cut the following pieces:
(2)  16”w x 4”h  (Bag Upper)
(2)  16”w x 11”h  (Bag Lower)
(1) 10”w x 6 ½”h (Zipper Pocket)

Using the Bag Interior Fabric, cut the following pieces:
(2) 16”w x 2 ½”h (Accent Stripe)
(2) 16”w x 15 ½” (Interior)
(1) 10”w x 6 ½”h (Zipper Pocket)

From Fusible Interfacing, cut the following Pieces:
(2)  16”w x 4”h  (Bag Upper)
(2)  16”w x 11”h  (Bag Lower)
(2) 16”w x 2 ½”h (Accent Stripe)
(2) 16”w x 15 ½” (Interior)
(2) 10”w x 6 ½”h (Zipper Pocket)

Interfacing:

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, apply interfacing pieces to the wrong side of each bag piece.

Tip!  Always use a pressing cloth when applying interfacing, this will help keep your iron clean!

Sewing:

Line up bottom edge of Bag Upper, with top edge of Accent Stripe, right sides together.

Stitch using a ½” seam allowance, press seam open.

Line up top edge of Bag Lower, with bottom edge of Bag Upper/Accent Stripe, right sides together.

Stitch using a ½” seam allowance, press seam open.

Top Stitching:

Using a slightly longer stitch length, stitch 1/8” from both sides of each seam.  This will not only look lovely, but it will also hold the seam allowance down and keep the bag tidy use after use!

Repeat for the other side of the bag exterior.

At this point, proceed to Step 5.

 

Step 4 for Bag with Ruffles:

Cutting: 

Using the Bag Exterior fabric, cut the following pieces:
(2)  16”w x 4”h  (Bag Upper)
(2)  16”w x 12 ½”h  (Bag Lower)
(1) 10”w x 6 ½”h (Zipper Pocket)

Using the Bag Interior Fabric, cut the following pieces:
(2) 16”w x 15 ½”h (Interior)
(1) 10”w x 6 ½”h (Zipper Pocket)

Using the Ruffle Accent Fabric, cut the following pieces:
(2) 40”w x 5”h (Ruffles)

From Fusible Interfacing, cut the following Pieces.
(2)  16”w x 4”h  (Bag Upper)
(2)  16”w x 12 ½”h  (Bag Lower)
(2) 16”w x 15 ½”h (Interior)
(2) 10”w x 6 ½”h (Zipper Pocket)

Interfacing:

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, apply interfacing pieces to the wrong side of each bag piece.  (You will not be adding interfacing to the ruffle pieces)

Tip!  Always use a pressing cloth when applying interfacing, this will help keep your iron clean!

Making Ruffles:

Using the 40”x4” pieces, fold in half lengthwise with wrong sides together, and press along the fold.  (Image shows the pressed edge compared to the unpressed edge)

Cut a piece of dental floss that is at least 45” long.  Tie one end of the floss to a straight pin, and secure that pin to the short end of the folded ruffle, near the raw edges.

Using a wide Zig-Zag stitch, stitch near the raw edges of the ruffle, centering the dental floss between the stitches as you go.

Tip!  Go Slowly!  If you rush through this step, you may accidentally stitch onto the floss, which will prevent it from pulling through cleanly later.

Using the un-pinned end of the floss, begin pulling floss through stitches. As you pull the floss, gently scrunch the fabrics together creating ruffles. Continue pulling floss and scrunching the fabric until the ruffle is 16” long.

Sewing:

Line up the raw edges of the ruffle with the top edge of the Bag Lower. Clip Right and Left Sides in place to help hold the ruffle in place while you arrange the ruffles.

Carefully arrange the gathered ruffles so they are evenly spaced across the Bag Lower, clip every inch or so to hold the ruffles in place.

Using a basting length, stitch 3/8” away from the raw edges of the ruffles.

Once the ruffles are basted in place, you can remove the dental floss. If you happened to stitch into the floss during basting, that’s ok, just trim off any long ends. (Any floss that remains will be hidden).

Stitch along the right and left sides of the ruffles to the bag lower, so the ruffles don’t shift during bag assembly.

Line bottom edge of the Bag Upper with the top edge of the Bag Lower, right sides together, clip to secure.    Stitch ½” away from the edge.  Press the seam away from the ruffles.

Top Stitching:

Using a slightly longer stitch length, stitch 1/8” above the seam.

Repeat for the other side of the bag exterior.

At this point, proceed to Step 5.

 

Step 5:  Creating the Bag Exterior

Preparing Box Corners:

Align the two Bag Exterior Pieces, right sides together, ensuring both pieces are facing up.  *For bags with accent stripe or ruffles, ensure seams are also aligned.

Clip along the edges to secure.

Mark a 2 ½” square on the bottom right and left corners.

Using scissors, carefully cut along the marked square, cutting through both layers of the bag.

Assembly:

Using a ½” seam allowance, sew along the bottom edge of the Bag Exterior. Press Seam Open.

Re-align the bag pieces, right sides together, clip edges to secure.  *For bags with accent stripe or ruffles, ensure seams are also aligned.

Stitch along the right and the left side.

Roll the cotton bath towel, and place inside the bag to create a surface you can iron your side seams on, without creating creases elsewhere on the bag.

Press Seams Open.

To create the box corners, align the side seam with the bottom seam, once aligned clip to hold in place.

Stitch ½” from the edge.  Repeat for the second corner.

Step 6:  Creating the Bag Interior

Installing Inset Zipper:

Locate the Zipper Pocket piece that was cut from the Interior Fabric.

On the wrong side of the interfaced fabric, draw an 8” line that is 1” away from the top edge. (The line will start 1” from the left side, and end 1” away from the right side)

Draw another 8” line that is 3/8” below the first line.  (It will be 1 3/8” away from the top edge, and also be 1” away from right and left sides.)

Draw lines to connect both lines at the ends, creating a rectangle.

Lay the marked Zipper Pocket piece, right sides together, atop one of the Bag Interior pieces. The Zipper Pocket piece should be centered, two inches from the top edge of the Bag Interior Piece. Pin to secure its position.

Sew directly on the lines you marked, for the full perimeter of the rectangle, be sure to backstitch at each corner.

Draw a line down the center of the rectangle you just stitched, starting and stopping ¼” away from the right and left ends.

Mark a dot at the starting and stopping points of the line.

Draw lines from each dot into the nearby corners. (This will create a little triangle at both ends)

Using sharp scissors, cut along the line you marked in the middle of your rectangle, stopping at the dot.

Very carefully, cut from the dot, into the corner along the triangle lines you marked. Cut as closely to the stitching as you can, without cutting the stitching.

Push the Zipper Pocket piece through the hole you’ve just created.

Press along all seams to create crisp edges. (This includes the short seams on each end.) Photos show before and after pressing.

Tip! Roll the fabrics back and forth gently between your fingers to help coax the seam to the edge, this will also finger press the seam before ironing.

With the Bag Interior right side up align the zipper, also right side up, behind the opening you just created.  Once the zipper is centered in the opening, insert a few pins to hold the zipper in place as you sew. (Some people like to use double-stick sewing tape to hold their zippers in place.)

Starting at the end of the zipper with the zipper-stop, sew slowly and carefully around the perimeter of the opening 1/8” away from the seam. Be sure to backstitch and pivot at each corner.

Tip:  To Pivot:  Stop sewing at the corner, lower the needle into the down position.  Lift the presser foot, rotate the fabric to the new direction you wish to sew, lower the presser foot again and resume sewing.

Tip:  When you near the zipper pull, stop sewing, lower the needle into the down position then raise the presser foot, this will give you the space you need to reposition the zipper pull and move it out of the way. You will have to move the zipper pull twice while stitching around the perimeter of the zipper.

Creating the Pocket:

Align the second Zipper Pocket Piece right sides together with the piece that is already stitched in place on the Bag Interior.

Clip edges together then sew around the perimeter of the pocket pieces. You will have to fold the Bag Interior out of the way as you go around.

Creating Bag Interior:

Assembling the bag interior using the same process as the bag exterior, with two items of note.

You will be using the two bag interior pieces, when aligning ensure the Zipper Pocket is at the top. When stitching along the bottom edge, be sure to leave a 5” opening for turning. All other steps remain the same. (Refer to Step 5 for the full instructions for preparing box corners and bag assembly)

Step 7:  Preparing Cotton Belting

Before cutting your handles, determine which length will be best for your child. Hand Held Style is meant for younger children, to help avoid dragging the bag on the ground. The Shoulder Tote Style is meant for taller/older kids.

Cutting Cotton Belting:

For Hand Held Style Cut:
(2) 12” pieces (Handles)
(2) 2” Pieces (For D Rings)

For Shoulder Tote Style Cut:
(2) 27” Pieces (Shoulder straps)
(2) 2” Pieces (For D Rings)

Prevent Fraying:

Cotton Belting has a tendency to fray after it’s been cut.  To avoid this, use a Wide Zig-Zag stitch on both ends of end of each piece of Cotton Belting, be sure to backstitch!

Step 8:  Completing the Bag

Tip!  When sewing through bulky layers go slowly, this will help prevent broken needles.

Installing D Rings:

Place a D-Ring on a 2” length of cotton belting, fold the belting in half, stitch along the short end to secure.  Repeat this for the second D Ring.

Align the raw edge of the D-Ring strap with one side-seam on the Bag Exterior, clip in place. Stitch 3/8” away from the top edge to secure in place.

Repeat for the second D Ring, on the opposite side.

Installing Handles:

Find and mark the center point of the top edge on the Bag Exterior. Straps will be installed equidistant from the center point.

For Hand Held Style Handles:
- Handles should both be placed 1 ½” away from the center point.

For Shoulder Tote Style:
- Straps should be placed 2 ½” away from the center point.
- Align the handle ends in their appropriate positions on one side of the Bag Exterior, clip in place.
- Sew 3/8” away from the top edge of the bag to secure handles in place.

Repeat for the second handle, on the opposite side of the Bag Exterior.

Sewing Inside Out:

Place the Bag Exterior into the Bag Interior, right sides together.

Clip along the perimeter of the top edge, aligning side seams. Sew along top edge of bag, ½” away from raw edges.

Tip!  When sewing through bulky layers go slowly, this will help prevent broken needles.  This will be especially important to apply as you go over the D-Ring straps!

Turning:

Using the opening in the bottom of the Bag Interior, gently pull the Bag Exterior through the opening.

Closing the Opening:

While the Bag Interior is hanging out, take a minute to close the opening.  You will align both edges of the opening, clip in place, and stitch as close to the seam as possible.

After the opening has been closed then tuck the Bag Interior into the Bag Exterior finalizing the bag shape.

Top Stitching:

Press the top edge of the bag for nice crips seams.

Tip!  Roll the fabrics back and forth gently between your fingers to help coax the seam to the edge, this will also finger press the seam before ironing.

After pressing, using a slightly longer stitch length, top stitch the perimeter of the bag’s top edge.

Congratulations, your Trick or Treat Tote is Complete!
I hope you have a wonderful time Trick-or-treating with your little ones this Halloween!!

Washing and Care:
Machine Wash with similar colors in cold water. It is recommended that after washing you re-shape the bag and air dry.  Use an iron to remove any pesky wrinkles. You can use a dryer, but the bag will become excessively wrinkled and will require a lot of ironing.


Fabric Details:

To view the complete FreeSpirit Fabrics Mystic Moonlight by Club Hauer, click here.
To find a retailer near you click here.


Learn more about Amy here.